Monday 13 July 2015

Our journey to Andaman Nicobar by Merchant Vessel MV Nancowry

This is an old story coming to mind about our travel to see the Andaman Nicobar Islands.  We travelled out to Madras from Delhi and on arrival there took our tickets for the ship travelling to Andaman Nicobar in the Merchand Vessel Nancowry (so it was called).

The Madras Harbour where we went to board the ship was busy as is usual there and our ship was in the dock filling up wherewithal for the travel anc huge loads of goods which were to be transported to the far off land.

For us, it was a great sight to see so many ships docked and being loaded.  Our ship was only one among the many ship, many of them much bigger and fully loaded.  Some ships were off loading goods.  We were instructed to carefully climb a gangway (a long stair way hooked to the ship) with our luggage.  My wife and with our two little children laboriously but with excitement climbed the stairs and reached the ship's upper deck  and walked into red carpeted hall like area where various directions were being given.  As per direction we walked down into a hall down below where our tickets were checked again and were guided to a deluxe suite in the upper columns of the ship.

The suite is actually a room with two air tight windows on the front side through which we can see the extreme front end of the ship with a long mast or pole.  The sea water  kept on coming as a spray from the front side from time to time but never reached our room windows as our windows were very much up.

The opposite side of the windowswas a door through which we entered the room.  On the one side was an almirah cum wardrobe and on the other a neat rest room, clean and tidy.  The beds were neat and clean too with smell of an inviting perfume hanging over them from the room freshner.  We settled down and before long tea was brought in pots with cups and saucers!  Once we settled down we had a good cup of tea wof the we came out as directed by our guides, the executives of the 'Nancowry" to see around the ship and acclimatise ourselves of our new home for the next three days on our outward journey to the Andaman and Nicobar Islands through the Bay of Bengal cum Indian Ocean!

The ship had as much as I remember, four decks, a First Class below our suites, a second class below that and a third class still below with cots and chairs for each traveller along with a bucket for those who have asked for them.  We were curious about the buckets as food was to be served in the canteen and wash was with a shower, then why a bucket?  My guide friend who was the Manager cum Finance Man of the ship cleared my doubt "They are for those who want to vomit!"  "Vomit?" I blurted out. "Yes, vomit,  Many people vomit once the ship start out."

The red carpeted floors were beautiful and there were people walking all over, clearing doubts, going to their respective beds to keep their things etc.  There was a small library which was a thrill to the children.  It held a lot of good books and children's books and was operated by one of the Ship's executives from time to time.  A nice cafeteria was there with television giving out movies from time to time while the travellers chose to visit the cafeteria.  Once food time was over the place functioned asa lounge with the movies on.  But sitting there for long was not found very conducive for elderly as the deep beat of the engine below nauseated those being there for long.

We walked around and climbed to the uppermost deck to see the place around!  It had a small swimming pool and sitting areas and those who wanted to go to the front-most area could see the extreme front of the ship with a flag pole!   Ships crew were very friendly and we enjoyed being there.

Now the final announcement were being played informing us that the ship is about to move out and the gang way was being taken off.   A small boat came behind the ship and started pulling the huge ship from the dock which is like a vehicle being pulled out of a small road into a large road.   That exdrcise took an hours time and the ship was now in the open sea with water only all around!  It made a couple of whistles and now the deep beats started.  That was moving out into the large open sea of Indian Ocean.

We started off with a slow speed which slowly increased and the ship started to sway back and forth with a great spray of sea water coming over to those standing outside near the front side!It is surprising to any one travelling for the first time, that such a huge ship with more than Thousand Two hundred people and a huge load of cargo being tossed by the great sea!  The water around was greenish dark and many of us told among ourselves that the place where we are going to visit is called 'Kala Paani' meaning 'black water'.  This proved true when we reached there as the water from a distance there, always looked black.

The Canteen Manager was a friendly face and good food especially mutton biriyani, a speciality, was always available apart from tea, coffee etc,  One enjoyable aspect was all the officials of the ship were very friendly and cordial.

From time to time, I left the cosy environs of our room to walk around the ship and to see the sea and the way it behaved generally.  The sea was calm always, the water dark green, and to long, long distances one only saw the sea only!  Very rarely we came across any other ship or boat and whenever they appeared they hooted from afar!  Time and again one could see the small flying fish just flipping across by coming out of the water and making a little flight of a few centimetres to disappear into the water again!  Apart from that there was the sea spray coming from the front side while the ship pushed through the waters.  The spray at times came to my face too and on just licking your lips you can taste the salt which I enjoyed!  The wind or breeze around the ship was always cool and salty.

One of the reasons I came out from time to time was my interest in catching an occasional smoke from the cigarettes I carried.  But the sea spray took away the taste of the smoke and I slowly lost interest in that injurious game. We visited the library from time to time, as my both children were very much enthused at the cartoon books and other story material it carried. Next stop was the carpeted canteen of the ship with its TV always giving one of the best movies in Hindi which children enjoyed.  Some how the beat of the engine below gave me early warnings of a vomiting sensation and on such occasions, I left the children to watch the movies and moved quickly to our wonderful deluxe room in the upper deck!At times, I went to the outer part of the ship to lick and enjoy the sea spray in the cool breeze!

Slowly it became dark and there was nothing further to see at night but to withdraw to one's room and spend time together praying, eating, drinking and doing small games with family which was a nice way to spending part of the time before sleeping!  We all got very good sleep through and the mornings were always refreshing!

We got to see the ship and the travelling public from time to time.  The middle deck, the deck below that and the lower deck all we could go  and see for fun sake. But the initial enthusiasm of going from deck to deck was short lived as people started vomiting into the buckets kept for the purpose. The putrid vomit made a smell, which if one is near it, made him vomit!  The lower most deck where we could go was below the water level and we could see the sea water splashing half way on its circular glass windows.  Since the glass fittings were air and water tight and of the required thickness, there was nothing to be worried about.

On the third day we reached an island called Nicobar or near it.  Here the ship anchored in the sea for a while !  A large boat came below and a gang way was put to the boat to which passengers slowly climbed down with their meager luggage precariously. That was a really frightening sight to city dwellers.  As if ever they missed their balance the sea below was the logical end of their fall.  Somehow, all the travellers seemed to know their way and climbed down in a matter of three hours and the gang way was lifted.  The boat travelled away towards the wooded island with its cargo of people and the ship hooting its siren a couple of times slowly started moving eastward towards the Andaman Island port called Port Blair!


Journey from Nicobar Islands

The ship hooted and moved away after the boat had move a long distance.  Again it was the black waters and little flying fish during the day. In the night, a look up will give a beautiful picture of the sky littered with innumerable stars  which delighted the hearts.  What a wonderful universe we live in. Endless number of  stars hanging in the sky shining all through!  The ancient mariners would have had a great time looking at them and making their charts. 
Next morning we were approaching dry land which could be seen as green patches from afar.  It came closer as the ship went in that direction.  Inside the ship all the travellers were tired out of three days and three nights continuous journey inside the ship, most of them worn out of vomiting and being in the smelly conditions in the middle and lower decks! Many could not eat due to the putrid smell and some were still vomiting even when the ship was slowing down!  But all were happy now that the journey was ending!   The last times small boat operation was going to take place. The ship cut down her engine and stood still, the small tug boat came and a rope from the ship was passed on to her and the little boat pulled the huge white ship into the dock where announcement started to tell every body that we have successful completed our journey and now to carefully get down through the gangway with red  carpet being lowered to the land.

The ship’s Captain and a few of the officials, all in impeccable white dress and cap were there!  The travelers thanked them for their wonderful work for bringing us ashore without harm and treating us with great food and conveniences, and occasional medicines when needed etc. The harbour was full of other ships, mostly cargo ships being filled with wood and wood articles which we were told were plenty in the Andamans.  When these cargo ships going out to other places came back, they brought  articles of daily use and groceries which filled the shops and merchant areas of Andamans.
Our arrival had been informed to the Guest House we had booked and they had sent a One Tonner to bring us from the harbour.  We got in with our luggage in the back.  Children were enthused to be out on land as they were really tired out of frequent vomiting and not being able to eat well.  I was the only one in the group who could narrowly escape the vomiting and this was attributed to my going outside on the deck and taking the spray on my face.  It is said the salty spray when one licked it subsided the feeling of vomiting.  I was surprised, but this was true as I did not have to vomit even once all through the trip.

The drive to the guest house was through hilarious and panoramic greeneries of the Island through beautiful roads slowly climbing up and climbing down from hill to hill and in a matter of one hour we reached a beautiful  guest house which was well furnished and kept very clean. While we were just reaching the portico there was a huge centipede in front of the vehicle which was much bigger than the one we see here in Madras (which they always called Mainland).  Since we were a bit panicked at the being, the driver, a youth consoled us saying that    “I shall get rid of it, don’ worry!”  He drove the one tonner ahead and a twist of the steering wheel and the centipede with its  horns and all went under the tyre and that was it.  He said such beings are common there and they are lethal if they pierced their horns on your legs or hands!  We all occupied our rooms and took bath and all lay exhausted on the beds for a while to rest!


A rain started before long. The driver had left saying that he will come back in the evening to take us to one of the officer’s houses who had invited us for dinner.  The greens have become wet by now in the rain, and a foggy hue covered the hills in a bluish white blanket  and the street lights seems to give less light in the rains and were far flung.  The driver came at dark and took us to the friend officers house through the winding roads again! At one place, he lost the road, he turned around from a joint as he understood the mistake and took us to the right place!  Had it not been for his skill to drive there, we would have been lost.!

The next day we started out to see the place around! We drove through the beautiful land scapes of Port Blair.  Went and say the Rose Island, Chhatham Saw Mill and on the way came in front of the Lt. Governor's office which we were enthused to go and see in a spur.  We met the Private Secretary to the Governor who informed us that the Governor is away on tour.  In one of the boat landing areas we went to touch the sea and were into the water searching for cowries, shunk and other oysters usually found there.  I had my nice cigarette lighter which suddenly slipped from my shirt pocket into the shallow water which was below my knee, but slightly muddy white in colour. How so ever, I fished for it, it could never be found again!  That ended my smoking pursuit in that tour.

The next day too, we started out in a rental van (Maruti Omni Vans were plenty there) which we had taken from a Tamilian entrepreneur.  The little van went smoothly on the winding road of the hills and valleys and reached us to the historic Cellular Jail which touched any body's heart who visited that place.  A three winged double  (or was it treble storeyed) storeyed yellow building which said the story of the cruel and pathetic punishments of the British times and the bravado and patriotism of the sufferers who were calm and pious even in front of the most pathetic sufferings inflicted upon them
including flogging and death...! We stood there in silence for a while as a mark of respect to the departed souls who made our day livable and honourable..!  On the way back to the guest house, the sky started to darken and it was late afternoon.

It started raining around five o' clock and it was a heavy down pour which we have not seen here in the Main Land.  It had a severity which surpassed the normal rain on the Main land.  As the down pour intensified, the water started flowing through the road side canals and rivulets and at places it crossed the road also.  We were nearing the air port to circle it around to go to a hill nearby on which our guest house was situated to wind up our days journey!  But one of the lowest part of the road became a little water cross through which a foot of water was crossing towards the low lying airportside!  Our driver a cautious Brother asked me : "Sir, would you like me to cross?" Since I have seen such water crossings before, and knew that no time is to be lost in such situations (other wise the intensity of water flow will increase) I said "Yes, let us cross!"  and he moved the van to the water to cross it.  Half way through the water, the engine went off!  This is dangerous! We can't affort to be there! I jumped out of the car and took my two little children back to the dry place from where we entered the water.

My little son started crying incessantly for no reason.  The over cast sky had stopped the heavy down pour now but the whole area was wet and the water crossings have already developed in low lying areas of the roads in several places. The driver said it would be best if we pushed the car back and in
no time my wife and I started pushing the car! The driver a great guy himself also came out and said
that he would also join the push as it would not be easy for only two of us, in experienced as we were.  The water has now swollen and the omni van started to slowly sway!  We said our prayers and pushed with all our might and the car was out of the water.   On the direction of the driver, we pushed it still further and brought it to upper ground where the water may not affect us.

Now how so ever the driver tried the car may not start!  He told us after opening whatever cables he knew of and said "Sir, the junction box has got wet. The only way is to call my Manager"  What he meant is that I call his manager.  Cell phones were unheard of in those days! I looked around and said,"Ya..I shall do so!"  There was no doing any thing at that time but to thank God for good life and pray to Him to send his angels or show us the next move.  I said in the affirmative only to show to my son that he may not restart his crying, which he stopped when we brought out the car to dry land! Since I was very hopeful they all became enthused!  My wife encouraged me to go to the next street corner which is visible from where we were standing and ask the little way side kiosk owner for help advising me that he may know some one.

It had become dark now and we five were the only human beings around and some one in the far seen kiosk shop.  I walked to the shop, my mind heavy as to what to do now, and clutching the visiting card of the Manager which he had given me when we started out in the morning!  At the shop, the elderly gentleman was closing it and despised me for coming to him at such time.  He slightly showed his displeasure by not attending to me for awhile and kept on packing his things for the day back to their places and crevices inside the shop.

Once he turned around I was telling him in English, Tamil and Malayalam and at times in Hindi that we are stranded and if he could give us some advice! He chided me saying "This is Andamans, one should wind up early:!" I said he is absolutely right but that I am stranded with my wife and two kids which, it seemed made an impression on him.  He asked: "What can I do?"  I said "Just advise me where can I find the nearest phone?"  It seemed my language with all kinds of broken stuff caught his attention on some part and he asked again "Sir, Malayaalee aano?" to which I answered in the affirmative.  Then he said "OK., you wait, let me see!"  He stooped down and went under a rack and pulled out a telephone..!!    That was held indeed!  My heart was filled with gratitude to that brother, when I found the phone had dial tone in it and in no time I was through to the Manager asking him to send another vehicle (as if I am in Delhi of those days).  The Manager pacified me "Don't worry and panic!  Be at ease!  A car is not that easy to come by here. But I shall send a mechanic, who will activate your car and your own driver is good to take you to the guest house"!

I thanked that Malayaalee brother profusely for which he said "If we could not do that much what are we for?"  I thanked him, paid him for the phone call and walked to the car to join my family and the driver.  We started talking to each other about the climate change, water transit on the roads and the
low lying areas confronted by the drivers everyday!  Before long a young guy appeared on a motoercycle and in fifteen minutes he got our car started.

Our driver said, "Sir now we cannot take the same route as that water crossing is very unsafe for the night! Water will be off only by morning.  So, if you agree I shall take a detour through two other hills and reach the guest house from the other side!" I readily agreed to his suggestion! He is the only one hope for the evening for us..!  He was truthful! after three hours of hard driving he reached us to the guest house, crossing or circling two other hills, just before mid night..!!
































(to continue..)






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